ETCHINGS
Intaglio,
Aquatint and Photo-Etching techniques explained. Dual plate colour
& Black ink costume and nude examples -Artist: Greg Howden --CLICK
ON THE IMAGE FOR ENLARGEMENT--
-INTAGLIO
PRINTMAKING: After the prepared printing plate is inked, the plate
surface is wiped clean by hand. The Etched area 'beneath the surface'
retains the printing ink and is transferred to a 'damp' paper by extreme
pressure from the Etching (printing) Press.
-ETCHING:
An acid resistant paint is applied to the plate, line-work is scratched
through the painted surface and acid-etched to produce the "key"
to retain the printing ink.
-AQUATINT:
This is the tonal aspect of an Intaglio print. A fine layer of heated
rosin is applied to the plate. The longer the plate is immersed in
the acid bath the darker the tone. Graduated tones are produced by
varying this immersion time.
-PHOTO-ETCHING:
A photographic image is transferred to the Plate, A traditional Tonal
AQUATINT is applied so that the desired printing graduations can be
controlled.
  
ETC19 ETCHING:
DUAL PLATE COLOUR AQUATINT -1983- IMAGE SIZE=297x207 mm
ETC21
ETCHING: DUAL PLATE COLOUR AQUATINT -1983- IMAGE SIZE=297x207 mm
ETC20
ETCHING: DUAL PLATE COLOUR AQUATINT -1983- IMAGE SIZE=297x207 mm
  
ETC24 ETCHING:
B+W PHOTO-AQUATINT -1986- IMAGE SIZE=395x293 mm
ETC32
ETCHING: B+W AQUATINT -1983- IMAGE SIZE=297x207 mm
ETC28
ETCHING: B+W PHOTO-AQUATINT -1991- IMAGE SIZE=395x293 mm
  
ETC25 ETCHING:
B+W PHOTO-AQUATINT -1986- IMAGE SIZE=395x293 mm
ETC23
ETCHING: DUAL PLATE COLOUR AQUATINT -1985- IMAGE SIZE=395x293 mm -
SOLD OUT -
ETC26
ETCHING: B+W PHOTO-AQUATINT -1991- IMAGE SIZE=395x293 mm
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Printing
from an etched plate dates back to the early 16th century. Over
a period of time many of the finite skills of this art have
been gained and lost.
My
first exposure to etchings was as a minor in my formal studies
of Sculpture as a major. The techniques taught were very primitive,
shellac was used as a stop out which not only did not cover
well but had the added unfriendly characteristic of being really
difficult to remove. Zinc plate was used because it was cheap
I suppose and Nitric acid was the etchant. Years later I decided
to take things more seriously, starting with etching press it
seemed that most I had seen suffered from design faults resulting
in warped bed plates and inaccurate settings. Plans were made
were made to make something correct from an engineering point
of view and working with a design draftsman over the course
of a year a press was eventually built or overbuilt. The engineering
shop I used specialized in custom made machine tools and was
large in size. The press built resulted in a 40 x 60 inch bed
plate of 1 inch steel. A solid steel roller 9 inches in diameter
top and 10 x 40 inches bottom roller. The huge rollers were
turned to a tolerance of +/- .002" The frame from 3/4"
steel and roller posts 3". All components were "stressed
relieved" meaning that they are placed in massive oven
so the steel is set not to move by controlling the temperature.
The major part of the frame was welded first and then "stress
relieved" Adjustment was provided for installation on the
concrete floor so that perfect alignment for the top and bottom
roller was possible. Adjustment up and down for the top roller
is by means of micrometer head screws in increments of .001"
I believe that this is one of the largest etching presses ever
built in the world and dub it the "sleeping giant"
as I can see it has a future beyond my lifetime far beyond the
use I have given it.
Next came refining the technical side of plate making and printmaking.
Zinc plate stretches and distorts under pressure and heat. Copper
has a finer, harder structure and is a better conductor of heat
making it better suited as an etching plate as the aquatint
process and printing requires the the plate to be heated. I
have also found that the hardness of the plate can be further
enhanced by hard chroming the plate a process I had to developed
by consulting and working with technicians in the commercial
printing industry. I also worked with traditional aquatint techniques
where the rosin is applied to the plate and heated, the ferric
chloride etchant bites between the heat set rosin which forms
a resist. The longer a plate is left in the etchant the deeper
the printed tone. Aquatint allows you to develop different tones
by stopping out areas once they have been acid etched stepping
the emersion time. I have found that by carefully mixing the
acid or ferric chloride and controlling the temperature that
the ink tones can be predicted.
Photo etching a 20th century innovation produces a solid stop
out and can be used in combinations with aquatint and line.
My initial photo etchings were produced by brushing a special
photosensitive liquid to the plate, placing a prepared transparency
made with my modified photo-copier and exposing this with the
correct Ultra Violet source. This was further developed by using
a similar commercial process utilized in making printed circuit
boards to obtain a more accurate result. Inks and papers were
trialed as well, as the only way to find out which works the
best is to set test parameters and in the case of papers a number
of papers were trialed taking prints from the same plate to
assess the absorption and drying characteristics. All papers
used in etchings are first soaked in water and blotted to produce
a damp and pliable surface that the ink "from beneath the
surface" of the inked etched plate is drawn from extreme
pressure from rolling it through the etching press. Felt blankets
of various density are placed between the printing plate and
the press rollers to even out the print and the prints are dried
in order to "set' the paper as flat as possible. Etchings
really are a unique style of printing in as much that there
is a great deal of time an intervention by the artist in preparing,
re-working the plate taking prints at various stages until the
work is complete.
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